The sensational 1998 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Antica Chiusina is an outstanding effort. Aged 18 months in French oak, this dense, concentrated, powerful 1998 remains extremely young, and in need of additional bottle age. A blend of 90% Prugnolo and 10% Colorina, it boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as sweet aromatics of tobacco, saddle leather, incense, black cherries, and cassis. Heady, ripe, rich, and still unformed, it could even pass for a barrel sample. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2014. Based on recent efforts, Fattoria del Cerro looks to be one of Tuscany's up and coming stars. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200