Given how well the 1998 Cuvee Laurence is performing out of bottle, I might be underestimating the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence. It exhibits better integration of wood than previous vintages, even though no new oak is used. Full-bodied, powerful, and backward, it requires further upbringing. Layered and rich, it will undoubtedly merit a mid-ninety point score when released next year.This is one of the benchmarks for traditionally-made Chateauneuf du Pape. Paul Feraud, a classmate of Henri Bonneau, is still involved in the running of this estate, but he has given more and more responsibility to his charming, talented daughter, Laurence.Readers looking for uncompromising Chateauneuf du Pape that can age for two decades need look no further than Pegau. Their primary vineyard plots are well-placed lieux-dits called Monpertuis, Rayas, and La Crau, the latter being the parcel from which the bulk of Pegau's wine emerges.Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400, Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400, and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753