At age 40, the 1982 Calon-Ségur remains a powerful, muscular wine that still takes several hours to open up in the decanter. Exhibiting aromas of sweet blackcurrants, earthy undergrowth and pencil shavings, it's rich, full-bodied and concentrated, with imposing reserves of firm, powdery tannin underpinned by its deep core of fruit. This old school, unreconstructed claret, which I imagine was forbiddingly austere for much of the first three decades of its life, is a wine the likes of which simply aren't produced in contemporary Bordeaux.

Not the most complex wine, but rich and youthful. Dark ruby in color, with a garnet edge. Medium- to full-bodied, with velvety tannins, cherry and wet earth aromas and a fruity, crisp finish.--1982 Bordeaux horizontal. Drink now. -JS