The 2001 Barolo Nei Cannubi has held up reasonably well, but it is flattened by French oak. There is plenty of depth in the fruit, but the nuance will never emerge from underneath the oak. A round, sweet finish compensates to some degree. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Einaudi’s 2001s were made during a time of transition at the estate. All things considered, the wines have held up well. I have little doubt today’s Baroli will eclipse the wines made during this period. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Ripe black-cherry fruit is framed by lashings of vanilla and dried spice in this lush yet tannic Barolo that ends with a mouthfeel like chewy velvet. Throughout, there’s a charred-roasted caramel note that stands a bit apart from the rest of the wine. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. ——W.E.(3/1/2006)—— 90