The powerful, concentrated 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (14.3% alcohol) exhibits aromas of black currant jam, tar, smoke, and forest floor. This opulent, rich 2003, while less flamboyant than the extroverted 2002, is deep, chewy, pure, and well-delineated. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025+. At the end of my tastings, Bo Barrett opened a 1986 Montelena (rated 94), and it is still incredibly young, rich, vibrant, and full-bodied. It is a terrific expression of Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon made by a master. It appears to have another 20-25 years of aging potential. (Release date 3/07)Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

A big wine from the Barrett family (14.2% alcohol), this 2003 exhibits earthy black currant fruit, the restrained but intense Montelena style, full body, good richness and impeccable balance, purity and density. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple and the wine shows lots of cassis. In spite of the restrained aromatics, the palate is rich, full-bodied, substantial and persuasive. This 2003 is approachable now, but it will be even more gorgeous 15, 20 and 25 years from now. This is a heritage wine from this great estate in northern Napa Valley. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221