Cogno’s Barolo Ravera is a wine that sometimes comes across as austere, but in 2003 the heat has filled out the wine’s frame nicely, giving it an attractive plumpness and soft, accessible personality. Today it is primary, with just the barest hints of macerated cherries and spices coming through, but it should be superb in another few years once the full range of aromatics have developed in the bottle. This gorgeous, poised Barolo should drink well to age 15, perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. Cogno is another one of those properties that always seems to fly below most people’s radar screens, which is unfortunate because the wines are consistently excellent. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Subtle aromas of prune, orange peel and coffee follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a fresh, clean finish. Delicious already. Best after 2009. 1,300 cases made, 425 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add