The 2004 Chardonnay Ovation, a Burgundian-styled white aged on its lees that enjoys full malolactic fermentation, tips the scales at 15% alcohol. However, there is no hotness in its big, sweet, brioche, honeysuckle, and orange marmalade-scented bouquet. Full-bodied and heady, it is ideal for drinking over the next 1-2 years. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

Ovation is never a huge, opulent wine, but rather one of control and finesse. It’s the kind of Chard that’s sometimes called Chablisian because of the firm minerality and streamlined, tightly metallic quality. The ’04 is complex and layered, offering fruit pie filling flavors of kiwis, limes and guavas with the caramel and vanilla of well-charred new oak. It’s one of the few Chardonnays that will benefit from midterm aging. Drink now—2010.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 93