The 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot is a bit richer and more textured in style than the Clos Saint-Marc. It is equally delicious, though. The wine's broad-shouldered frame and expressive fruit come through nicely on the powerful, saline laced finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. Olivier Leflaive's domaine lineup will be getting a big boost in the next few years with the addition of parcels in Sous le Dos d-Ane, Pucelles, Folatieres, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Batard-Montrachet that previously were part of the Domaine Leflaive holdings. In addition, Olivier Leflaive continues with a negociant operation, whose wines are reviewed separately to avoid confusion. Overall, I find the Domaine Olivier Leflaive bottlings more interesting than the Maison wines. All of these 2010s are fairly open and accessible. The best wines may hold for some time, but I don't think cellaring will result in meaningfully more complexity. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

This is ripe to the point of being exotic with well-layered aromas of a variety of yellow orchard fruits that include peach and apricot along with notes of mango, papaya and white flowers. The exceptionally rich, full-bodied and mouth coating flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm acid spine before culminating in a dry and tension-filled finish. This is a classic Morgeot with plenty of size, weight and generosity yet there is no heaviness.

Originally better known for its red wines, this vineyard to the south of Chassagne-Montrachet now produces mainly white wines. This bottling is structured, firm and tight, and it promises a future that will always be serious and austere. Keep it for 4–5 years.