If Syrah can be elegant, this is the poster child. Dark and saturated, this wine is nonetheless light and almost airy, in a good way. The fruit flavors (berries and plums) seem to float above a bed of acid and ripe tannins. There are light streaks of iron and coffee and nuances and suggestions of rock and earth. The grapes are from Fielding Hills’ Riverbend Vineyard—if you like those wines, you will surely like this as well.——P.G.(12/31/2008)—— 90