Even what I thought was a disappointing 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape seems to have put on weight, although it is unlikely to ever be bottled as Marie Beurrier, and never as a Reserve des Celestins. It did show more character, although it still has some rustic tannins in the finish. Everything else in these cellars performed beautifully. Next year readers should be ready for the release of what is a great, great vintage at Bonneau, the 2001s, which are probably even better than his 1998s. I can’t say enough about the great Henri Bonneau, who seems to be a bigger-than-life character in the spiritual rather than physical sense, and who is an inspiration for every young producer in the Rhone Valley. It is a privilege to taste there, and I am thrilled with how well the tastings went this year. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

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