The 2001 Barbera d’Alba, dark ruby in color, features vibrant plum and berry fruit, softness to accompany significant vigor and length, and a supple texture which hides the substantial size of the wine’s body. Drink: 2004-2008. It’s something of an eerie feeling to walk into this cellar and not be greeted by Giovanni Conterno, who left us for the big vineyard in the sky at the end of 2004. Nothing to worry about, however, other than a keen sense of regret for the loss of this historic figure – his son Roberto, who worked with his father for over fifteen years, is fully in charge and produced spectacularly promising wines on his own in the 2004 vintage. The house is not particularly known for its Barbera, but it is easily one of the best in the traditional style – aged in casks, not barrels – on the market. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404