From the top of one’s nose to the tail of its finish, the Hirtzberger 2007 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel offers unusual notes of resin and pine needles, along with budleia and the more usual ripe apricot. Just as in approaching this year’s Honivogel, after the performance of the Hochrain I was anticipating perhaps too much ripeness and rot in Singerriedel, but there is only a subtle and very noble overlay of honey. Nut paste, apricot and white peach with their pits, honey, and malt inform this opulent, creamy, yet not in the least heavy Riesling, and they carry into a clear, pure, buoyant, juicy, still subtly honeyed finish. This eloquent and uncannily-balanced wine should stand up to 8-10 years in the cellar. Most of Hirtzberger’s 2007 vintage Gruner Veltliner reflect their late dates of harvest and the presence of botrytis (a certain amount of which he always welcomes) in rich, low tones.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

One of Austria’s great wines, this intense expression of an imposing vineyard explodes in the mouth. Its perfumed, floral character quickly gives way to a taut, tight mineral structure, a coiled spring with its white fruits, citrus and bright acidity all waiting to race out as the wine ages. Keep for at least five years.——R.V.(7/1/2009)—— 95