From an Alexander Valley vineyard planted at lofty heights of 900-2,200 feet, the 2004 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkeye Mountain is a structured, austere, Bordeaux-like offering displaying a backward, brooding fruitiness. Terroir-driven, it exhibits notes of black currants, crushed rocks, earth, and tobacco leaf. It should be cellared for 3-4 years, and drunk over the following 15 or more. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

New oak and ripe Cabernet fruit mesh seamlessly in this 100% varietal wine, grown at very high elevations in the Mayacamas Mountains. Full-bodied and lush, it brims with blackberry tart, black cherry jam, mocha, root beer, cola, molasses and sweet vanilla oak. Enormously complex, the wine unfolds in delicious layer after layer. Best opened young to enjoy its voluptuous fruit.——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 93