Packaged in a short, squat bottle, the 2016 Pithos Bianco flaunts its golden-copper color and its proudly oxidative style. The wine offers aromas of candied orange peel, almond, yellow rose and even a touch of smoky cedar or church incense. The wine is dry and slightly astringent in terms of mouthfeel. It is made with Grecanico grapes that see extended skin maceration times.

The 2012 Pithos Bianco is a pure expression of Grecanico macerated on its skins for seven months in clay amphorae that are buried underground. It pours into the glass revealing a light orange color that is laced with brilliant highlights of shiny gold and amber. The bouquet is immediately enticing with delicate nuances of dried peach, orange peel, creme caramel, candied fruit and fresh almond paste. You can’t beat the complexity of Pithos Bianco. As it opens aromatically, it begins to show seductive slivers of dried mint leaf, cardamom, wet terracotta and crushed oyster shell or marine salt. The 2012 vintage is epic in its opulence and intensity – one of the best I’ve tasted so far. To be expected from a white wine that sees extended skin contact, the wine shows a tannic bite and firm supporting structure. The mouthfeel is dry to the point of feeling dusty, with the alcohol registering at a low 10.5% (although it feels warmer). Even if you are not a fan of the “orange” school of winemaking, there is no denying this wine’s profound appeal. I look forward to checking in on its evolution ten years from now. This is a masterpiece. Drink 2015-2028. Over the many years I have tasted the wines of COS, I don’t remember a lineup with as many stunning, standout wines as what is available now. COS was founded in 1980 by three friends whose last name initials spell out C-O-S: Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti and Cirino Strano. Giusto is the face of the winery today. From the start, COS sparked a revolution on two fronts. First, the quality of the wines produced lent untold credibility to the Cerasuolo di Vittoria appellation in southern Sicily and to the Frappato grape. Today, it is one of the island’s most promising territories. Second, COS was among the first to bring biodynamic and so-called “natural” winemaking to southern Italy. Those efforts proved – most certainly in my mind – that Sicily is the most suited area for these winemaking philosophies thanks to the island’s near-ideal growing conditions and weather. It’s no surprise that Sicily’s poster girl for natural wines is Giusto’s niece, the super dynamic and simpatica Arianna Occhipinti. Giusto’s vision has already inspired a legacy. Importer: Domaine Select Imports, www.domaineselect.com

The 2010 Pithos Bianco, a 100% Grecanico, is quite soft and understated. Soft, floral notes meld into white, yellow stone fruits, peaches and savory herbs in this soft beautifully delineated wine. Textural finesse and elegance are the hallmarks. Saline notes frame the exceptionally polished finish. I imagine the Pithos Bianco would be dynamite with raw fish. This is another highlight in the range. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. COS is yet another Sicilian winery on a roll. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2009 Pithos Bianco (Grecanico) was fermented in terra cotta amphorae. It shows gorgeous depth and purity in its fruit, along with a polished, elegant personality. Sweet honey, mint, rosemary add complexity on the multi-dimensional finish. This is another superb wine from Cos. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. This is quite possibly the finest set of wines I have ever tasted from COS. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these ambitious wines, many of which also deliver phenomenal value. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799