This is one of the most interesting and expressive wines to come from the Vittoria area of Sicily. The 2018 Frappato is tonic and sharp, linear and direct. But don't assume that this is an easy wine: It reveals more depth and nuances than you might expect. What I love most about Frappato is that it always renders a naked, authentic and transparent expression. That frankness is here too, but the folks at COS have brilliantly added their own little tweaks with touches of balsam herb and bitter almond that appear randomly along the way. This wine is only aged in cement, no oak is used. Some 38,000 bottles were made.

The very pretty 2015 Frappato offers a deep sense of elegance and finesse. This is a medium-bodied red that could easily be mistaken for a wine from a cooler climate or from Northern Italy. The bouquet is pristine and firm with wild berry, chopped almond and dried rose hip. This Frappato is a gorgeous wine with the delicate bouquet of a young Nebbiolo and the silky tannins of an aged wine.

The 2011 Frappato is a wine of contrasts. There is striking purity and translucency to the fruit, but at the same time a slight element of greenness, especially in the tannin, detracts from the wine’s overall balance. As always, the Frappato seems to hover on the palate with a weightless, intriguing personality that is hard to fully describe with words. With a little more purity in the tannins, the 2011 could have been a materially better wine. As it is, the 2011 is good, but not great. Multiple bottles have essentially shown similarly. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. COS is yet another Sicilian winery on a roll. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2009 Frappato possesses gorgeous inner sweetness, superb textural elegance and fabulous overall balance. Sweet red cherries, flowers and mint linger on the high-toned finish. This is a pretty serious Frappato that stands apart from the vast majority of other versions for its density and richness. The Frappato was aged in equal parts cement and amphorae. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. This is quite possibly the finest set of wines I have ever tasted from COS. Readers owe it to themselves to check out these ambitious wines, many of which also deliver phenomenal value. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799