The Benito Ferrara 2019 Irpinia Aglianico Vigna Quattro Confini reveals a pretty personality with plenty of wild berry, rose and blackcurrant. The wine gracefully escapes the trappings of appearing too heavy or extracted, and that lighter style makes it approachable and easy to drink. You might try it with a simple pasta and ground meat ragù. Production is 10,000 bottles.

A release of 8,000 bottles, the Benito Ferrara 2017 Irpinia Aglianico Vigna Quattro Confini is an unexpected wine. It was born in a scorching hot and dry vintage, yet the fruit is lean and ultimately fresh. The wine opens to tart cherry and wild raspberry with light touches of spice, crushed stone and some sweet cherry liqueur. This is a pretty red that could pair with an easy pasta of mushrooms and pancetta.

The 2016 Irpinia Aglianico Vigna Quattro Confini tastes a bit older than I expected. With a 12-month aging regime of 30% French oak and 70% stainless steel, the wine shows slightly evolved notes of tar and licorice with dark fruit and dried currant at the back. It is drinking very well at the moment, but I'd suggest a relatively short drinking window to be on the safe side. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

This expression of Aglianico offers delicate shadings of almond paste, sweet spice, candied fruit, pipe tobacco and cedar wood. The mouthfeel is simple and clean and ends with a burst of sour cherries.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 86