Showing its distinctive white label, the Mastroberardino 2016 Taurasi Riserva Radici is a full-bodied expression from a classic vintage. The wine carries its fruit weight with grace and offers plenty of lingering black fruit, dried plum, cinnamon spice and toasted coconut. Detractors might fault the ample oak spice here, but the wine hits a delicate point of balance thanks to the extreme fruit quality at hand.

Packaged with a white label, the 2014 Taurasi Riserva Radici opens to spice and savory notes with dried fruit, blackcurrant and dried cherry. In terms of mouthfeel, this Riserva is a bit leaner in the mid-palate (this is a common trait of the vintage); however, it does flesh out to power a polished mouthfeel with plenty of dark fruit and smoke. The tannins are integrated and spicy. Of the many wines Mastoberardino makes, this is probably the one marked for a nice, grilled steak.

The 2012 Taurasi Riserva Radici seemingly grabs all the sunshine and warmth of this vintage and stuffs it into this bottle. This is a bold and thickly textured wine that offers rich extract and dark fruit intensity. The bouquet reveals pressed blackberry, rose petal, tar, licorice and spice. Those aromas come from the ripe fruit achieved in this growing season, but you also get a lot of oak layering with toast, cinnamon and shaved nutmeg. Those oak notes will probably never fully integrate, given that they appear now, some six years after the vintage.

Mastroberardino has crafted a remarkable 2009 Taurasi Radici Riserva. The wine reveals dark fiber and concentration with interwoven aromas of toasted nut, spice and hearty dark fruit. Pressed cherry, plum and black currant define the fruity element of the bouquet. The mouthfeel is plush and soft with a contemporary style that flaunts ripe fruit extraction with warming oak and spice. The integration is spot-on and this vintage is almost ready to drink now.

The 2005 Taurasi Riserva Radici is now showing the very early signs of tertiary nuance. Hints of worn-in soft leather, licorice, incense, tobacco and menthol open up as the wine sits in the glass. Seemingly endless layers of aromas and flavors continue to develop over time. The 2005 is a decidedly classic leaning Taurasi with less overt fruit than some previous vintages, but tons of overall complexity. This is a superb showing from Mastroberardino. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620