The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena Villa Arvedi seems engineered for Amarone-curious consumers who may not be familiar with this intensly aromatic Italian red wine. The wine doesn’t offer the exaggerated bulk and muscle of other well-known brands. Instead, it presents a focused bouquet with elements of cassis, dried cherry, tobacco, resin and black licorice. It reaches a state of elegant intensity that is also suitable for near-term consumption. Drink 2014-2020. Anyone who frequented Verona’s famed Bottega del Vino wine bar in its glory days will remember the Bertani “altar” set up in the downstairs cellar. Carefully erected under its own pool of light, the shrine consisted of important vintages arranged into a giant pyramid with magnum-sized wooden cases at the base. Small church candles flickered at the perimeter. That altar to a single brand, so revered and holy to the Veronesi, always comes to mind when I taste Bertani’s wines. This cherished symbol of Valpolicella is a beacon for those who appreciate the storied winemaking customs of the region. In 2011, Bertani was purchased by Tenimenti Angelini (a branch of the Angelini Group pharmaceutical firm). Despite the new ownership, Bertani remains one of the most consistent producers of traditional Amarone. Importer: Palm Bay Imports, www.palmbay.com

Bertani’s 2006 Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena Villa Arvedi is a dark wine with a promising bouquet that doesn’t seem to find the continuity or complexity on the palate I had hoped for in this vintage. Still, this is a pretty, impeccably balanced fruit-driven Amarone to enjoy over the next few years. Sweet spices, earthiness and dark cherries linger on the elegant close. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena Villa Arvedi features a more floral, bright expression of red fruit than the darker 2006. Notes of tobacco and licorice develop in the glass, adding further complexity. The perfumed style and mid-weight body lend themselves quite nicely to near-term drinking. This is a very pretty, feminine Amarone from Bertani. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The estate’s 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Villa Arvedi is made in a fairly accessible style. It offers up an array of earthiness, smoke, tobacco and vibrant red cherries on a medium-bodied frame. The wine possesses excellent energy and focus, along with firm, but nicely integrated tannins. This is a great choice for near-term drinking as the wine has already acquired pretty, tertiary nuances. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642