The 2010 BAGA was aged in used French oak for 12 months. It is only 13% alcohol. Those numbers promise a wine with restraint and that’s what we have. Pure but compact, this does not have much in the way of mid-palate concentration (perhaps fair enough for its price range), but it does have a big hit of tannin on the finish. This is very much your classic food wine—earthy, restrained, a bit tight and rather bright (that’s Baga!). If you can overlook the somewhat thin mid-palate, this is very attractive for a well priced version of this grape. Don’t forget the food matchup—it will need one; this isn’t a porch sipper. Notwithstanding some limitations, this is attractive on many fronts and the real bargain of the lineup in most respects. The acidity and tannins should allow it to age decently in theory, and probably better than I think, but the lack of mid-palate concentration may betray it as it ages, so dive in. Drink now-2020. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2009 BAGA was oak aged for 12 months. If you like its style, this is another nice value in this lineup. Caressing in texture and solidly built for this price range, it has good acidity and structure, not a lot of concentration but an elegant mid-palate and a nice finish. It also has a rather notable gamey nuance that not everyone will be thrilled with. For those who are, you have yourself a nice bargain. There were 5,300 cases produced. Drink now-2018. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155