The 2008 “TERMEAO” is mostly Touriga Nacional, with 15% Castelao Nacional. Crisp and earthy, with noticeable tannins gripping the palate, this does not show a lot of concentration, but it is elegantly constructed, very persistent and focused. It is an awfully nice value this year if you like its slightly austere, sunny style, comparable to the Entre II Santos reviewed this issue. It is a little fleshier, perhaps slightly less well balanced and slightly more shrill. There were 2,334 cases produced. Drink now-2017. Campolargo is an interesting winery in Bairrada that presents a less traditional face with its various small production bottlings. Manuel Campolargo makes things that are a bit different than the usual fare—Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Bordeaux blends, unusual monovarietals and the like. Modern Bairrada isn’t just about Baga—although they make one of those, too. The wines often provide some nice value, as evidenced by some of the offerings this issue, and the off-the-beaten-track wines often hit the mark.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2007 “TERMEAO” is a blend of Touriga (75%) and Castelao Nacional (25%). A bit light in the mid-palate, some might say elegant, it is quite gamey and sauvage this year, but bright and flavorful, with ripe tannins and a lot of character. I predict a lot of folks will seriously dislike this wine for its notable gamey notes, but for those who don’t mind or appreciate the demeanor, it provides some interesting drinking. The mid-palate concentration seems unlikely to reward cellaring, but it should hold decently. Drink now-2015. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel: (914) 664-3155

The 2005 TERMEAO is a blend of Touriga (75%) and Castelao Nacional (20%), with a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon thrown in. Rather fruity, it is bursting with flavor, yet immediately shows its elegance and focus as well. The mid-palate is well on the elegant side, and the tannins are well integrated. The best feature might be the bouquet, intense and perfumed. The wine is not perhaps as impressive as the heavy bottle, and probably not as deep as its siblings, the “CC” or Calda Bordaleza reviewed this issue, but this sunny, aromatic and tasty wine grew on me as it aired out. Drink now-2013. Campolargo is an attractive estate in Bairrada which often focuses more on international grapes and other Portuguese varieties rather than the traditional Baga, making a Bordeaux blend (Calda Bordaleza) and even a Pinot Noir. They are making pretty good use of those international varieties, producing some interesting wines containing Cabernet Sauvignon in particular. Manuel Campolargo, the owner, presents a large array of wines at different price points, often in big, distinctive bottles with long names. I wasn’t so sure how I felt about this estate from early tastings, but I think they have improved and are going to improve even more. There is always a lot of personality evident here, both in terms of whimsy and wine.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2004 “Termeao” is a blend that tosses in some Cabernet Sauvignon with native varietals. Much more intense and ageworthy than the “Os Corvos” sibling reviewed here, it is also fuller in the mid-palate. It is, however, also higher in acid, and somewhat harsh on the finish with air, although as the wine continued to evolve, that aspect improved. There are hints of game on the nose that pop up with aeration. This needs to show some major improvement in the cellar. It has its good points, but it was hard to warm up to this wine. It clearly has better structure and more depth than its less expensive sibling, the Os Corvos bottling reviewed here, but I can’t say I liked it lot more. Drink 2008-2014.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155