The 2020 L'Apparita opens to a midnight black color and an impenetrable appearance. This Merlot set the benchmark for the grape in Tuscany and continues to do so today, despite the various challenges to an early-ripening variety facing climate change. The 2020 vintage remains rich and opulent, even heavy on the mid-palate, with lots of thick fruit layering and soft tannins. It ends with sweet fruit and barbecue spice.

One of the stars of Italian enology, this iconic wine is Merlot in name but Tuscan in spirit. The L'Apparita is a gorgeous wine and one that brings an enormous sense of excitement and energy to those who drink it. Its texture is soft and rich, yet the tannins are gentle and round. There is plenty of substance and structure here, however, with seamless layers of black fruit, cherry, sweet spice and tobacco. The wine's complexity is enhanced by elegant mineral tones and a subtle, menthol-like signature. Temperature control and careful pump-overs are executed, and great care is taken during harvest to avoid any overripe berries. Cool, calcareous soils with many stones serve to insulate the roots and lock in freshness. The secret of this wine is magic of site, exposure and geology. This is another collectors' edition of L'Apparita.

This wine has earned its spot in a world of pantheons that is grande vini Italiani. The Castello di Ama 2018 L'Apparita is one of the world's greatest Merlots, and this slightly cooler growing season delivers on all the promise and pedigree that we should expect of this collectors' favorite. L'Apparita opens to an inky dark and blackish appearance, and the bouquet slowly reveals black fruit, ripe cherry, dark spice, smoke and barbecue rub. The wine's texture and finish, which is so velvety and rich, so supple and soft, is what will ultimately win you over. Indeed, this wine excels especially in terms of the elegance and fullness of the mouthfeel.

I am immediately struck by the power and concentration of the Castello di Ama 2017 L'Apparita. This is an exuberant and gregarious expression of Merlot that has absorbed every last sunbeam of the hot summer season. On the nose, the wine shows beautiful fullness and generosity that spills richly across the senses. Blackberry syrup and cherry liqueur are followed by smoke, tar, toast and sweet chewing tobacco. You taste that extra density in a similar manner, and the rich concentration of the fruit has consequently shaped a more apparent tannin and a little snap of astringency on the close. My sample bottle does not show a reading of the wine's alcoholic content, but you feel some heat as well. This edition of L'Apparita is extra dark, succulent and firm. When the wine has been given another five to ten years of cellar age, then I'd suggest guinea fowl or one of those delicious roasted pigeon dishes you find in Tuscany. Some 7,300 bottles were made.