Sourced from vineyards in Mercurol and Beaumont-Montieux, Cuilleron's 2017 Crozes Hermitage Laya easily mixes cherries and blueberries on the nose and palate. It's medium to full-bodied, with a plump, open-knit feel and hints of pepper and anise on the finish.

A possibly outstanding effort, the 2012 Crozes Hermitage Laya is 100% Syrah that will spend 19 months in neutral oak. Graphite, lead pencil shavings, leather and spices are all grounded by a core of sweet raspberry and blackberry fruits. Hints of chocolate and charcoal round out the bouquet and this medium-bodied, rich and nicely concentrated effort has loads of character and depth. Drink it over the coming 7-8 years. Yves releases two cuvees from Cornas, and I found the quality consistent in 2012, yet preferred the Vires release by a fair margin in 2011. There are three Saint Joseph cuvees in red: the Les Pierres Seches, which comes from sand and granite soils around the town of Chavanay; the L'Amarybelle, which comes from high density, terraced plantings of older vines; and lastly, the Les Serines, which comes from the oldest vines of the estate and is the only cuvee to see new oak. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant Ltd., Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990