The 2009 Olmaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) is very pretty in this vintage. Layers of expressive red fruit, flowers, licorice and sweet herbs caress the palate as the wine shows off its radiant, engaging personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is soft-spoken and reserved. He is also one of the most driven of Montalcino’s large landowners. A quiet, non-publicized conversion to biodynamic farming that has been underway for several years is typical of the way things are done at Col d’Orcia. Cinzano’s right-hand man, estate manager Edoardo Virano, has worked at Col d’Orcia since 1977 and has an intimate level of knowledge of the property and its history that is second to none. Col D’Orcia makes a wide range of wines, although it is the Brunelli that stand out most. In a typical vintage the Brunelli can be enjoyed a few years after release, but history continues to teach me that they bloom most fully between ages 20-30. Luckily, the estate has an extensive library of older wines that are re-released with some frequency, which gives consumers the opportunity to taste older vintages with perfect provenance, something I have been able to do on a few occasions. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Francesco Marone Cinzano as well as my article on a handful of older Col d’Orcia’s library wines, both posted on www.erobertparker.comImporter: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2005 Olmaia (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a classy, elegant red. In this vintage the varietal characteristics are a touch subdued; instead the wine offers racy aromatics wedded to a core of silky, perfumed fruit, with a long, refined finish that falls just a touch short of outstanding. Still, in 2005, this is a terrific effort. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. Col d’Orcia, one of Montalcino’s historic properties, is located in Sant’Angelo in Colle in the southern part of the appellation.Importer: Palm Bay International, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

Olmaia (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) delivers power and intensity with interwoven tones of ripe fruit, spice, forest floor and leather. The wine exhibits a rich and smooth texture that helps drive it along the palate in a soft and very pleasurable manner. ——M.L.(3/1/2010)—— 92

Olmaia is a pure expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that hits all the right marks. You can taste the variety’s natural flavors but they never seem green or medicinal. Instead the wine is plush, soft, round and opulent, with ideal harmony and balance and beautiful delivery of chocolate, cherry, vanilla and herbal aromas. The wine almost exaggerates, if possible, its generosity and roundness.——M.L.(4/1/2008)—— 95

The 2001 Olmaia is assuredly better than the 2000, but I am convinced that the house could do more with this wine. Deeper and more sustained in its ruby color, the black fruit, minerals, and herbs are notably fresher in aroma and the palate is rounder, firmer, and more balanced. Drink: 2005-2014.Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.