The 2019 Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière Blanc unwinds in the glass with notes of pear, stone fruit, smoke, white flowers and praline. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with lively acids and a saline finish, it derives from three parcels in this limestone-rich climat.

Aromas of green orchard fruit, honeycomb, citrus oil and oatmeal introduce the 2017 Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, satiny-textured but tensile wine with good mid-palate amplitude, bright acids and a long, saline finish. This is an excellent white Maranges that will drink well on release and likely represent superb value.

From bottle, the 2016 Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière Blanc was also showing very well, and it will be hard to choose between this somewhat more cool-vintage-styled rendition and the more immediately giving, expressive 2017. Offering up aromas of green apples, toasted nuts, iodine and subtle chamomile, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly textural, with a bright line of acidity, chalky extract and a pure, saline finish.

The 2015 Maranges 1er Cru la Fussiere Blanc felt a little conservative on the nose and perhaps did not quite convey the same level of mineralité as the Santenay Village Blanc. The palate ups the game with lime, cooking apple and a touch of peach skin. The acidity is nicely judged and there is good persistence on the finish, although at the moment I feel that this is just holding itself back, not fully letting go. Let's see how it performs once in bottle.

The 2014 Maranges 1er Cru la Fussière Blanc has a little more exoticism on the nose thanks to a cheeky dab of peppermint tincturing the citrus and lime fruit. The palate is well balanced with good density, again, quite saline in the mouth with kiwi fruit, lime and lemon zest towards the energetic finish. It is not quite as persistent as the Santenay Blanc, but it will drink beautifully for 5-8 years, possibly longer.