Marzipan, yellow plum, pistachio and almond paste in Clair’s 2006 Pernand-Vergelesses are nicely complimented by the hint of vanilla and spice from barrel. This silken-textured, generously fruit-filled wine finishes refined and perfectly dry, with a hint of saline minerality. It should prove quite versatile at table over the next 3-4 years. Bruno Clair and cellar master Philippe Brun’s small collection of white wines is always deserving of serious attention, and their 2006s are especially generous in personality.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Produced from a newly acquired parcel in the Boutieres vineyard, the 1999 Pernand-Vergelesses (white) has flower, apple, and spice aromas. It is light to medium-bodied, zesty, and offers delicious as well as delicate crisp apple and acacia blossom flavors. Anticipated maturity: now-2003. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.