The 2014 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a powerful nose with broody dark berry, cola-tinged fruit that need more delineation and terroir-expression--the winemaking comes through a little strongly here. The palate is medium-bodied with supple red berry fruit, quite plush tannin and a little more...decorum...than the aromatics, as if it has just remembered that it is a Grand Cru. I appreciate the focus here on the finish; I just wish the aromatics could muster more sophistication.

The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, which comes from vines planted in 1954 on red soils in the Mazoyères, has a dense and ripe blackcherry and blueberry-scented bouquet that is Bonnes-Mares in style. The palate is structured and dense, quite firm tannin here with a tightly-wound tight-lipped mienrally finish. More impressive than enjoyable at the moment, this will need several years in bottle.

The 2012 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an endearing bouquet with animated scents of black cherries, iodine and blueberry that is quintessential Charmes-Chambertin, full of exuberance. The palate is ripe and succulent on the entry: a sweet core of macerated dark cherries, mulberry and black plum; a saline notes lining the finish that lingers seductively in the mouth. This is a Charmes-Chambertin that just goes out to give pleasure. I have been following the wines of Geantet-Pansiot for a number of years, since the domaine has a loyal following here in the UK. They have not been reviewed by this publication for three of four vintages, which is a pity because Vincent Geantet’s wines are very reliable and good value. I requested a visit to the domaine back in November, but the tardy malolactics meant that it was inopportune to do so, but I had the opportunity to taste some of their bottled 2012s in London. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228 and through several importers in the UK.

Dense cherry nose. Lush and rounded, concentrated yet limpid, with fine racy acidity; intense and very youthful, but lacks a little persistence.