Aromas of orange oil, honeycomb, ripe pears, wheat toast and paraffin wax introduce the 2018 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and textural wine that's fleshy and enveloping but underpinned by an impressively chalky structure that brings unusual tension and grip to this inherently generous terroir.

Aromas of mandarin, orange blossom, musky peaches, honeycomb and anise introduce the 2017 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, ample and exotic wine with a broad, textural attack but a nicely controlled, even tangy mid-palate and finish, concluding on a lingering saline note, that expresses this site at its best.

The 2013 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a backward, reticent nose at first, but it opens nicely with touches of oyster shell and limestone infusing the citrus fruit. The palate is clean and fresh, a pleasant symmetry here with finely tuned acidity and well-integrated oak that only makes a fleeting appearance right on the finish. This is an assured Criots that should drink earlier than either the Chevalier or the Montrachet.

Henri Boillot’s 2011 Criots-Batard-Montrachet has all the grace of a ballerina. Intensely sweet, honeyed layers of perfumed fruit flow effortlessly across the palate. The Criots boasts gorgeous inner richness and fragrance, but no sense of heaviness at all. This is a dazzling effort. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Henri Boillot recently finished his move to a new modern cellar in Champ Lins, one of the industrial sections of Meursault. Boillot describes his 2011s as having a bit more richness and better balance of fruit and acidity than the 2010s. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Boillot seems to be one case where the 2011s have the potential to be better across the board than the 2010s. As is often the case here, the village wines are particularly strong. Importers: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769, Cynthia Hurley French Wines, West Newton, MA Tel 617-965-4251 www.cynthiahurley.com and Chelsea Ventures, LLC, 1601 South Canal St, Chicago, IL 60616 tel. 847-920-5052