The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges Les Hauts Poirets had finished its malolactic in December. The nose was showing some reduction at the time of tasting. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and acidity. There is just a touch of spice in the mouth, with good density on the finish, although it does not represent a huge step up from the Cote de Nuits Village. It seems to be an occupational hazard that every so often, there is an enormous hound salivating behind winery gates, eyeballing his prospective lunch. Still, once I had let Gilles Jayer’s dog leap all over me, thankfully in excitement rather than hunger, we descended down to his cellars to taste through the 2012s. Here, the vintage commended not until October 2 and yields were low at 20 hectoliters per hectare. He approaches his wines in a modern style, everything rigorously sorted and de-stemmed, the wines bathed in new oak, which to his credit, seems to be assimilated into the fruit far better than others. These wines are very consistent and if you appreciate fruit-driven, sleek, sumptuous Pinot Noir, then these will fit the ticket. Importer: no known US importer.

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Hauts Porrets is a fairly immediate wine graced with dark plums, black cherries, tar, licorice and violets, all of which flow in a round, supple style that suggests the wine will drink well with minimal cellaring. The Hauts Porrets possesses plenty of depth and suppleness, yet also captures some of the more vibrant notes of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Gilles Jayer’s 2010s are stellar. The harvest stretched into October, late even by the standards of the year. All of the wines were aged in 100% new oak and had not been racked at the time of my tastings. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. No known American importer.

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Hauts Porrets presents layers of black fruits, crushed rocks and flowers, all of which come together in a powerful, vibrant style. The density of the fruit carries through to the polished, finish. This is an especially elegant and complete Nuits. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. This is a strong set of wines from Gilles Jayer. In 2009 the harvest took place from the 16th to the 24th of September. After vinification Jayer leaves the wines in oak with no racking until they are assembled prior to bottling. Jayer uses 100% new oak for all his wines. With the occasional exception of some of the entry-level offerings, the wines handle their new oak admirably well. I also had a chance to taste the 2008s. Aside from the Hautes Cotes de Beaune – which was too reduced to evaluate – the 2008s showed very well.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les Hauts Porrets clearly shows the effects of the hot year. The fruit is quite immediate and bold at the outset, but then the wine loses much of its persistence on the mid-palate and finish. A distinctly overripe character robs the wine of freshness and energy. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. No known American importer.