Aromas of dark, smoky plums and berries mingle with nuances of rich soil and grilled meat, introducing the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Frémiets, a medium to full-bodied wine that's ample and layered, with a deep core of concentrated fruit, sweet and supple structuring tannins, and a long finish. The charm of the vintage has tempered the muscularity of Frémiets to make for an unusually giving wine.

The 2009 Volnay Fremiets emerges from the glass with masses of dark fruit allied to equally powerful structure. The vineyard is rich in rocks and limestone, which confers quite a bit of heft. This parcel of Fremiets is right next to Jarollieres in Pommard. The Fremiets was made with 100% destemmed fruit. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Nicolas Rossignol began picking on September 10th and brought in very ripe fruit, with natural alcohols in the 13.5% range. Rossignol used a higher percentage of stems than normal to give the wines a measure of freshness. The wines saw 20-24 days of cuvaison (with no cold soak) with one punchdown per day. New oak ranged from 15% for the villages to 33-50% for the 1ers. The wines were not racked during their time in barrel. Rossignol has an energy and passion that will take him far. His 2009s are a bit all over the place stylistically, though, and it appears that a distinct house style has yet to emerge. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640; Pas Mal Portfolio, NY; tel. (201) 569-4132

A rich version, sporting black cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors. This stays fresh as it unfolds its silky texture with balance and light tannins. There's a nice lingering finish. Best from 2010 through 2019. 75 cases made. -BS

From a warm spot along the Pommard line, Rossignol’s 2005 Volnay Fremiets smells of ripe blackberries, sweat and game. Chunky, full (at 14% alcohol) and broad-shouldered on the palate, firmly, prominently tannic, and with persistent meaty character, it is almost the very model of Pommard rather than Volnay! The striking, palate-staining finish is of beef juices, sweat, tart blackberry and iodine. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.