A bit of a sleeper in the Jaboulet portfolio, the 2019 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes is a top-flight effort, boasting hints of graham crackers, blueberries, cassis and mocha. It's full-bodied, rich and atypically concentrated, with a long, velvety finish that delivers immense pleasure.

Sourced from granite slopes between Mauves and Tournon, the 2018 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes is a super effort marked by scents of crushed stone, violets, raspberries and blueberries. There's less spice than (for example) the Crozes-Hermitage from Domaine de Thalabert but more stone. It's medium to full-bodied, aristocratic and almost Hermitage-like in character, being restrained, straight and very long, finishing on hints of licorice and espresso.

Crushed stone notes accent cassis fruit in the 2017 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes. It's full-bodied but not quite as rich as the 2018. Focused, reserved and fine, it's an elegant rendering of Saint Joseph, not a big powerhouse.

The red-fruited 2016 Saint Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes features cherry and olive notes. It's rich and velvety across the medium to full-bodied mid-palate, turning crisp and tart on the finish. Drink now through 2030.