A 2005 Riesling Auslese – like its Veltliner counterpart collected from a wide range of vineyards – smells of orange blossom, honey, gooseberry jam, and candied lemon. In the mouth this offers a gooseberry jam-like counterpoint of ripeness and tartness, which gives the juicy, invigorating finish some real cut. “Even under the description ‘sweet wine’ I imagine something you can drink a second glass of,” says Knoll, and that is certainly the case here. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2004 Riesling Auslese, from a mixture of Knoll’s best sites, smells of apple jelly, honey and brown spices. In the mouth, the wine is rich and creamy, though not at all heavy, and loaded with apple jelly, peach preserve and honey. Notes of truffle add nobly fungal complexity, and fresh lime notes provide bright juiciness. The grapes were pressed quickly and gently precisely to keep the wine (in Knoll’s word) “slim,” and that is exactly how the finish comes off: long and rich, yet delicate and bright. This may not be Wachau typical, but what a wine. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700