Since the law does not, it turns out, recognize this unusually acid-retentive and distinctively-perfumed branch of the Traminer family as a separate variety, Knoll has had to simplify the description on this year’s label, which now reads simply 2004 Traminer Smaragd. The wine itself, however, is a good bit more complex than its name, leading off with a lovely nose of rose petals and prosciuto-wrapped melon. A delicate to the touch yet ample, rich refined and billowing palate full of melon, pit fruits, smoked meat and roses leads to a perfumed finish featuring the lively juicy cast that only this one member of the Traminer family can deliver. For all of the sultry richness on display here, this was the very first wine Knoll harvested in 2004. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Explosive lychee nut and rose aromas emanate from 2000 Traminer Smaragd Loibner (this is Gelber Traminer but an Austrian law prevents the Knolls from indicating it as such). This is an intensely spicy, layered, sexy wine, from vines planted in 1993. It is reminiscent of a Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer. This wine is rich, opulent, and immensely flavorful. Perfumed mangoes are intermingled with juniper berries in its dry, balanced character. Drink it over the next 5 years. While Americans can be found knocking on the doors of Burgundian estates every day of the year, only 5-10 per year stop at Weingut Emmerich Knoll. This statistic is bound to change as Americans come to appreciate the stunning wines Austria, and this winery, produce regularly. One of Austria's finest wineries, Knoll produces ageworthy wines that are more restrained and elegant than their good friend (and competitor) F. X. Pichler.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700