An ashen aura as well as peppermint pungency and in general a Muskateller-like audacity characterize the Knoll 2010 Traminer Smaragd, which combines oily richness of texture with the bright, almost Riesling-like brightness that this rare yellow variant of Traminer (established chez Knoll via Salomon) can muster and that the 2010 vintage accentuates. Wafting rose petal and luscious blood orange add allure, though the pungent as well as impressively juicy finish harbors a bit of heat. I would want to monitor this carefully before planning to hold it longer than 4-5 years; that said, it might well shape up to be a serious keeper. “Warmth and wind at the end of October gave Smaragd the extra push, especially for Gruner Veltliner,” notes Emmerich Knoll Senior, and his estate did not begin picking that category until the first week in November. “Up until then, it pretty much counted as settled that we wouldn’t bottle a 2010 Vinothek in either Riesling or Gruner Veltliner, which in fact we did. But I can’t recall when the Smaragd ever had acid levels identical to the Federspiel as happened this year. Not that I’m unhappy about this,” he adds with a laugh. “There have been and will be quite a few vintages in which we would be happy for some of 2010’s acidity.” A portion of the Riesling Federspiel crop was de-acidified as must. Total production was only around half of what Knoll considers normal. None of the Smaragd – collectively, almost unbelievably, representing the heart of one of the finest Knoll collections in memory – was not due to have been bottled until late this summer.Importer: Circo Vino Besenville, IL; tel. (417) 732 4200

The 2007 Traminer Smaragd – as always at Knoll, rare Yellow Traminer – smells of bacon, citrus oil, celery seed, and rose petal. A (for this variety) surprising amalgam of lime and orange zest bitterness on an oily-rich palate leads to a bitter-sweet, alkaline finish, which however lacks the refinement, finesse, or focus of which Gelber Traminer is memorably capable, perhaps on account of its having been the earliest-harvested (early October) of this year’s Knoll Smaragd wines. Nobody ever said grapes in this family were reliable, and anyone given the opportunity to experience bottles of the amazing 2006 (reviewed in issue 177) should jump on it. Like many of their neighbors, the Knolls harvested Federspiel already in late September, but then largely sat out the rains for three weeks before commencing to pick Smaragd. Botrytis-affected clusters were segregated and pressed immediately, and even the entirely healthy portion of the crop was given less skin contact than usual. A few botrytized rows or parcels were left to hang for nobly sweet wine (in a vintage where few Wachauer followed suit) although not from Riesling. I continue to long for the return of a vintage wherein the Knoll Gruner Veltliner outshines their Riesling, as has not happened for some years now. As has once again become the norm here, none of the Smaragd (save for the Muskateller) were bottled before late summer of last year, and my most recent notes are from cask (or occasionally tank).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Knoll’s 2005 Traminer Smaragd – from the Yellow Traminer – smells alluringly of rose petals and lavender. Characteristically for this grape, the wine is oily in texture and rich in the mouth, yet possessed of frisky acidity. A mouthful of rose petals, lavender, and black pepper leaves a clear, fine, subtly floral and herbal finish that glides smoothly in a manner quite unlike that of a typical Gewurz-traminer. The pickers left any grapes that were significantly touched by botrytis to hang and then returned to them at the end of the harvest to achieve nobly sweet results. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel ($22.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Pfaffenberg Kabinett (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700