The 2004 Illo is a new wine Felsina proprietor Giuseppe Mazzocolin created to support various charitable causes that are near and dear to his heart. Illo is a selection of the estate’s best barrels of Rancia, Fontalloro and Maestro Raro, bottled only in magnum and available through a hand-chosen list of restaurants, including New York City’s Marea, where I tasted it. Remarkably elegant and well-composed, the Illo impresses for the breadth and amplitude of its fruit. Fine, silky tannins frame all of the elements together beautifully from start to finish. The earliest hints of mint, licorice, leather and sage have begun to develop, but this remains a young, powerful wine in need of serious bottle age. The elegance of the 2004 vintage has the last say in the wine;s impeccable balance. I hope to have the opportunity to revisit this in a few years, as it is clearly special. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Felsina is a reference-point property for readers who want to discover the best Tuscany has to offer. Prices remain exceedingly fair considering the quality of what is in the bottle.Various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Wine Warehouse, City of Commerce, CA; tel. (323) 724-1700; Maverick Wine Company, Binseville, IL; tel. (630) 860-4600; Prestige Wine Cellar, Dallas, TX; tel. (214) 823-9272; DeLuca Liquor & Wine Nevada Wine Agents, North Las Vegas, NV; tel. (702) 669-3916; Baroness Wine Distributors, Denver, CO; tel. (303)934-1300; Transatlantic/Southern Wine & Spirits, Miramar, FL; tel. (305) 625-4171; Bacchus Importers, Baltimore, MD; tel. (410) 633-0400