Only produced in select vintages when growing conditions are deemed exceptional, this is one of the most coveted bottles in Italian wine. The Quintarelli Giuseppe 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva represents the last vintage seen by Bepi himself. Giuseppe Quintarelli died in January 2012 at age 84 following his struggle with Parkinson's disease. There's magic in this wine, and we raise a glass to the master of Negrar. It delivers elegant class and concentration, fruit freshness and the power (plus 16.5% alcohol) that comes with appassimento. It's an ethereal wine from a hot and dry vintage. There are many contradictions within the bottle, but it ultimately settles on a place of balance and beauty. I opened bottle number 1,443 of only 5,726 released.

The previous vintages of the wine immediately preceding this one are 2003 and 2000. Jump forward in time, and the 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva will linger on the market for a while because the estate has not yet decided which vintage will be next, but as a rule of thumb, the Riserva is only made two or maybe three times per decade. Only 5,838 bottles of this wine were produced. I'm told that the 2015, 2016 and 2017 vintages are all very strong contenders for Riserva status. In any case, this is the last Riserva to be made in Giuseppe Quintarelli's lifetime (he passed away in 2012). One of the criteria that makes a Riserva is the appassimento process that is extended by a couple of months here. This wine boasts 17% alcohol, and that enormous inner power is ultimately what drives this wine. That motor is enhanced by rich fullness, dense texture and beautifully balanced aromas of dried fruit, exotic spice, cigar box and moist potting soil. The quality of the aromas is absolutely clear and pristine, and the tannins have been softened into absolutely silkiness.

The 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva awards a truly exceptional emotional charge for reasons that go beyond the technical tasting attributes of the wine. There is the nostalgic recognition that this would be one of the last vintages made, all hands on deck, by Giuseppe Quintarelli before his struggle with Parkinson's disease and his death at 84 in 2012. I tasted bottle number 4,780 of only 5,973 made. The Riserva is only produced in truly exceptional years and represents the single-best barrel of the bunch. Sadly the wine is heavily saddled with overripe aromas and a strong blast of 17% alcohol that are hard to see past. Of course, 2003 was an extremely hot vintage. The bouquet here is overplayed with heavy-footed aromas of dried fruit, smoked cedar wood, crushed brimstone and balsam herb. Given the greatest of the estate's other wines, my expectations of this wine were not met.

The 1995 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva is a towering, majestic wine of heroic proportions. This big, full-bodied wine flows across the palate with remarkable depth, expansiveness and purity. There are tons of ripe dark fruit here, along with nuances of leather, spices and sweet tobacco. This opulent wine builds on the finish, where it displays superb staying power. This is another reference-point wine from Giuseppe Quintarelli, and although it is insanely expensive, it isn't marred by some of the imperfections (namely excessive volatile acidity) that sometimes show up in his wines. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025. It isn't easy to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli, as this legendary producer releases his wines when he feels they are ready, not a moment sooner. As is often the case, these are some of the most mind-blowing wines being made anywhere, but sadly, prices are equally dizzying. Still, for readers who can afford them, these are reference-point wines. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999