The 2010 Pinot Noir Los Robles, from a vineyard in Santa Barbara, emerges from the glass with black cherries, earthiness, spices and tar. Today it comes across as a bit heavy-handed. It is one of the very few new releases from Kendall-Jackson that underperforms relative to its price point. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. I must say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Kendall-Jackson. Qualitatively the wine are head and shoulders above the vast majority of what is available in the same price points, but what amazes me most is Kendall-Jackson’s ability to achieve such a high average level of quality with production levels that are truly eye-popping. In 2010, which was not an abundant year, Kendall-Jackson produced nearly 2,000,000 cases of the flagship Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This is a brilliant showing from winemaker Randy Ullom and his team comprised of Matthew Smith (reds) and Mark Theis (whites).Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

The 2008 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Los Robles is slightly better, but obviously not the bargain that the Vintner’s Reserve represents. Underbrush and floral berry and cherry notes are present in this medium-bodied wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2013. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

From the Los Alamos region, this young, firm Pinot wants a little time in the bottle to mellow. Tasted in January, it’s unresolved in tannins, fresh acidity, oak (76% new) and primary cherry and raspberry fruit. Should be a very fine wine sometime toward 2011.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 91

The 2007 Highland Estates Pinot Noir Los Robles exhibits sweet fruit, herbs, pomegranate, and sweet and sour cherries, plenty of flavor, lush tannins, and a fleshy mouthfeel. Unfortunately, very little is produced. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com