Under the Vintner's Reserve designation, the 1999 Semillon Vintner's Reserve is a crisp, elegant, citrusy offering with good fruit and ripeness, medium body, and a dry finish. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (707) 579-3419

The most attractive wines from the least expensive sector of the Kendall-Jackson line-up are the Vintner's Reserve cuvees. I enjoyed the waxy, pungent, light-bodied, citrusy 1996 Semillon Vintner's Reserve. As well as Kendall-Jackson's Artisans and Estates wines performed in my tastings, the overall quality level of KJ's Vintner's Reserve and Grand Reserve offerings was less impressive than in previous vintages. There is no doubt that 1996's short crop (and consequently higher prices) may have made access to the large quantities of high quality white wine juice more problematic, but I also noticed that the red wines tasted more tart, with less expansive textures, and higher acidity. After all, these are price point wines.Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (707) 579-3419

The fat, monolithic 1994 Semillon Vintner's Reserve offers a fleshy mouthful of wine. It would be ideal with grilled salmon. Tel. (707) 263-9333