The 2019 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is generous, bursting with aromas of pineapple, sweet orchard fruit, honeyed peaches, white flowers and buttery oak. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's a ripe but lively wine with a demonstrative, sun-kissed personality.

Deep and muscular, the 2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, toasted nuts, orange oil and fresh pastry. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and textural, with a concentrated core of fruit, ripe acids and a long, honey finish. Readers who privilege power over tension will gravitate toward this, whereas the Genevrières-Dessus and Tête du Clos will appeal more to purists.

The 2016 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru had not been racked and so was quite reduced on the nose. The palate is quite rich and mellifluous, a fine thread of acidity with a touch of spice and ginger on the powerful finish. It is a long-term prospect because you can feel the weight and presence already, though whether it will reach the heights of the finest recent vintage remains to be seen. This will be bottled entirely in magnum.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Leroux's 2014 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a powerful nose with much more tropical scents than I would expect from this vintage: mango and passion fruit, a touch of orange rind with time. The palate is rich on the entry with that mango/passion fruit theme continuing and the wood nicely integrated, but it just does not quite deliver the mineralité or tension you would expect. Not bad at all, but here it was surpassed by some of its peers.

The 2013 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a reserved nose at first, but it opens gloriously with wet limestone and marine scents. This is very intense. The palate is very concentrated with a taut line of acidity cutting through the light honeyed notes, touches of lemongrass and ginger enlivening the finish. I prefer this to the Corton-Charlemagne '13 this year.