The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru opens in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, orange oil, almond paste, pineapple and fresh pastry. Full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's rich and expressive, with lively acids and a charming, demonstrative personality.

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru is quite reserved, unwinding in the glass to reveal notions of citrus oil, pear and wheat toast, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered palate that's promisingly tensile and penetrating.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru is showing very well, wafting from the glass with notes of waxy lemon rind, white flowers, lime zest and an elegant framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural and multidimensional, with promising depth and concentration, balanced by racy acids. If all those qualities make it into the bottle, it will be a wine worth seeking out.

The 2015 Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles Grand Cru from Louis Latour is the best of the house's whites this year, opening in the glass with notes of buttered apples, hazelnut cream and struck match. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, notably fresher and more cohesive than the other whites in the portfolio, with a good line of acidity despite just a touch of alcoholic warmth. Ultimately, however, this is rather pedestrian by the standards of this great grand cru.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles Grand Cru had a strange nose, very concentrated and powerful with intense dried honey and tinned peach notes, but it does not exude real pedigree. The palate is pleasantly saline on the entry, some edginess coming through, the acidity well judged. It seems to expend all its energy on the entry and then scarpers out of the exit door with bit too much haste. This is a difficult one to work out. Tasted May 2016.