From three sites in the Hohlgraben, Malat’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Dreigarten mingles grapefruit and rhubarb in a tart, satisfyingly juicy, silken-textured, and manifestly extract-rich tribute to some vintage-typical virtues. A briny note adds mineral interest and invigoration to the finish. This, too, should be capable of giving satisfaction for 4-5 years. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Malat’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Dreigarten mingles an odd hint of smoke with fresh herbs in the nose. But on the palate, it’s soft and juicy, polished in texture, with mint-tinged melon and cucumber, finishing clean and refreshing, with a reprise of subtly smoky pungency. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.

Gruner Veltliner is always close to Malat’s heart, and he bottles three levels and styles, the middle of which is illustrated by his 2004 Gruner Veltliner Dreigarten. A nose of baked apple, vanilla and resinous herbs overlain with a youthful veil of yeast leads to a palate of creamy richness and generosity of fruit that mark it as having undergone malolactic conversion. The finish is also broad and rich, lingering with baked apple, vanilla, herbal essences, and a hint of pepper. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870