The 2007 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner is, as usual with this bottling, technically an Auslese, a fact noted in tiny print on the label. Once again as well, it reached relatively high (14%) alcohol, but with absolutely no negative side effects. What has often been an imposingly rich, ample wine – and this year is no exception – has not, I think, suffered from the decision to from now on eliminate the wine’s stay in barrel, a decision taken as Gerald Malat puts it, “to integrate it into the line” of other Gruner Veltliner here. And unlike in many other years, this time the wine tastes dry. Rhubarb, red fruits, tobacco, malt, and pepper inform a palate of almost custard-like richness of texture, leading to a long, finish that preserves invigorating tartness while offering low-toned, malted richness and saline, subtly animal savor. This should prove rewarding over at least the next 6-8 years. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

The 2006 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner is, as usual with this bottling, technically an Auslese, a fact noted in tiny print on the label. Equally predictably, the alcohol is relatively high (14.3%, at a mere five grams residual sugar), yet there is neither roughness nor heat. Rich and intense, this year’s version nevertheless is firmer and shapelier as well as more vivacious than typical. Pineapple and zesty tangerine inform an ester-rich, high-toned aroma, and are tinged with salt and white pepper on the palate. This finishes with luscious generosity of fruit and nicely integrated salinity and pungency, even not with enormous complexity. Not only is it an imposing treat to drink now, I suspect it will improve over the next several years. Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.

Malat’s ripest Gruner Veltliner, which spends a short time in barrel, is labeled 2004 Das Beste vom Gruner Veltliner Auslese, although “Auslese” ought not to be taken as indicating a wine of more than subtle sweetness (in this case from nine grams residual sugar). The nose mingles botrytis-inflected caramelized pear, honey and brown spices with more Veltliner-typical sage and sugar snap peas. Even at this advanced level of ripeness, and with a dense, creamy richness of lightly caramelized peach and poached pear on the palate, here is a 2004 Gruner Veltliner that harbors Riesling-like bright acids, leading to a lovely citrus and honey dynamic in the finish and a buoyant, elegant overall impression. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870