There is just one barrel of the 2013 Pernand-Vergelesses this year, so good luck hunting that down. It has a gorgeous wild strawberry bouquet that is crisp and vibrant and demonstrated more fruit than the Savigny at the moment. The palate is well balanced, quite structured with blackberry and raspberry fruit, touches of seaweed toward the finish. If you can track down a bottle, drink it over the next four to six years.

There are just two pieces of the 2012 Pernand-Vergelesses Village this year. The nose is neat and tidy: quite conservative with light blackberry and raspberry fruit, aromatics wishing to spring no surprises. The palate is bright and chunky with slightly coarse tannins at the moment. It builds nicely with a little more weight than the Savigny, but is still just a little short in the mouth. The usual five pieces of Aloxe-Corton was reduced to two this year. Patrick Javillier was busy down in his Meursault winery when I called in at the property that was established by Raymond Javillier after the war, when he set about acquiring parcels of vine around the village. Yet the main focus of the business was in purchasing fruit from courtiers. Patrick himself vinified his first wine in 1974 after completing his winemaking diploma at the University of Burgundy and steadily built up a raft of long-term contracts, tending holdings through fermage agreements. Since 2008, his daughter Marion has looked after and vinified the red wines and it was clear that Patrick takes a great deal of pride in them. I have been following Javillier’s wines for a number of years now. Here is a man determined to transcend the limitations of possessing propitious terroirs, but few premier and grand cru vines. How does he overcome them? Well, simply by straightforward winemaking tenets: complete de-stemming for the reds, remaining faithful to his trusty old Vaslin press (which was recuperating in the corner after the vintage), skillful use of new oak and by assiduously blending small parcels whose final wine is often more than a sum of its parts. Patrick told me that he commenced picking on September 12 with potential alcohol levels coming in between 12.0 and 12.9 degrees. These wines often represent outstanding value and we commence with his two generic whites that offer outstanding value year after year. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 01 33 1 42 55 42 93

A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, various American importers, also David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800.