The 50th anniversary vintage. The first single vineyard white wine of Italy. Tuffeau and basalt. Calvarino is fermented in cement rather than the tank, as is used for the Classico. A broader sash of orchard fruits, verging toward toffee apple, mingle with ginger, orange blossom, rosemary, sage, almond and jasmine. 20-30% Trebbiano di Soave due to its affinity with volcanic soils. Saline and sappy, whilst also resinous and intense. A powerful wine that is paradoxically pixelated of detail, immensely saline and beautifully light on its feet. The sort of wine I challenge anyone not to love. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.

Celebrating its 50th anniversary (1971-2021), the organic Pieropan 2021 Soave Classico Calvarino has a soft and richly textured side that is contrasted against the bright citrusy and mineral flavors that the Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grapes are known for. This blend sees 70% of the first grape and 30% of the second, and the wine is aged in cement for up to 15 months. That's the special quality offered by Calvarino, a wine that is modern yet also rooted in local tradition. You get a lot of food-pairing potential out of this bottle, whether it be sushi or roasted chicken. Production is 70,000 bottles.

Aged in cement vats, the Pieropan 2020 Soave Classico Calvarino is definitely heavier texturally and waxier in this hot vintage. This organic blend of 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave shows a lot of orchard fruit, with ripe apricot in center stage, and pretty details of crushed stone and yellow rose at the edges. You get more richness and density here, compared to the more vertical or lifted bouquet seen in the 2021. Production is 60,000 bottles.

The Pieropan 2019 Soave Classico Calvarino shows a rich and silky texture that is infused with honey, ripe apricot, papaya and spicy saffron. This certified organic wine shows a lovely level of creaminess on the palate. There are hints of exotic spice and white licorice root to add more complexity and a special signature that only Garganega (blended here with 30% Trebbiano di Soave) can offer. This single-vineyard wine from volcanic soils ages in cement vats for one year. Production is 60,000 bottles.