The Abetina vineyard was planted in 1975 as part of a clonal test conducted by Oregon State University and includes 22 different Pinot Noir clones, and this single-vineyard wine is only produced in select vintages. The pale to medium ruby-purple 2015 Pinot Noir Abetina gives up fresh, pure fruits on the nose: black cherries, blackcurrants and crushed blueberries with licorice, pink peppercorn, dried violets and a meaty touch. Light to medium-bodied and silky textured, it fills the mouth with layers of warm black fruit, sliced Jamón Ibérico, dried flowers and autumn leaves, with a firm frame of grainy tannins and mouthwatering acidity, finishing very long with wonderful layers. 280 six-packs produced.

The 2008 Pinot Noir Abetina Vineyard is from a parcel planted in 1975 to 20 different clones. On the palate it is already complex with hints of white pepper and licorice melding with savory black cherry and black raspberry flavors. It has more depth of flavor than the Aurora bottling as well as greater volume and length. It merits 3-4 years of additional cellaring and should be at its best from 2013 to 2023, perhaps longer. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com

This two-acre site dates back to 1975; this is only the fourth time that Ponzi has offered it as a designate. Muscular and authoritative, it is still compact and somewhat unyielding. Dark cherry and cassis fruit is packed with iron filings, coffee grounds and black licorice. Winemaker Luisa Ponzi does her usual excellent job of putting the polish on outstanding fruit. Give it another decade and it will show its best. ——P.G.(3/1/2011)—— 93

The 2005 Pinot Noir “Abetina” is perfumed with lovely aromas of vanilla, violets, and red and black cherries. The wine has plenty of structure and grip as well as excellent length. It will evolve for several years and drink well though 2020. Ponzi Vineyards began in 1974 making them one of Oregon’s pioneers. Dick and Nancy Ponzi, the founders, remain very much involved although winemaking duties were turned over to daughter Luisa in 1993. In addition to remaining a reference point for Oregon Pinot Noir, the winery fashions excellent wines from Italian varietals including Arneis and Dolcetto in honor of their heritage.Not yet released. Tel. (503) 628-1227; www.ponziwines.com