The 2019 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir—nicknamed Black Ops—is indeed a darker shade of ruby than the regular bottling. Just the merest hint of cedar appears on the nose, accenting notes of black cherries, plums and some earthy, spicy, cola-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and bold, this expansive, generous wine is framed by silky tannins and bright acids, which prolong the mouthwatering finish. It's a terrific effort from one of the region's acknowledged masters—owner/winemaker Rudi Bauer.

From an early pick of the vineyard, Quartz Reef's 2018 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir is uncommonly elegant, with delicate but assertive notes of raspberries and cherries accented by hints of mint, thyme and bay leaf. It's medium to full-bodied, smooth and streamlined, and framed by gently dusty tannins that fan out on the lengthy finish.

Earthy, spicy and complex, the 2017 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir is a rich, savory example of Pinot Noir from a region better known for forward fruit. Hints of mushroom and sage accent dark fruit flavors, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, lush and supple, with a long, silky-textured finish.

Darker and richer than the regular 2016 bottling, the 2016 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir reveals aromas of cola, plum, spice and cedar. It's full-bodied but lacks the plushness of the 2015, perhaps because of its age, perhaps because the vintage just didn't offer the same level of ripeness. It's still an excellent Pinot Noir, with a decade ahead of it.

The 2015 Bendigo Estate Single Ferment Pinot Noir is all Clone 115. Like previous years, it's 20% whole cluster, but the oak regime has been brought back to only 16% new oak. It's a big, voluminous wine, with plenty of black cherry fruit, subtle spice and herb shadings, ample ripe tannin and a long, velvety finish. The Titi (as this year's ferment was nicknamed) is more flattering young than the 2014, but it should be just as long lived.