A blend of fruit from Lavières and Bas de Combe, Remoissenet's 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges exhibits a deep-pitched bouquet of cassis, spices and burning embers. Medium to full-bodied, chewy and muscular, it's bright and lively, with more overt structure than the C?te de Beaune reds that preceded it in this tasting.

The 2013 Nuits Saint Georges Villages has a slightly muted bouquet at the moment, does not really come out and grab you like the C?te de Nuits Villages ’13 tasted previously. The palate is fresh on the entry with gritty tannins, quite masculine and foursquare with an austere finish. It just needs to muster a little more charm.

"An attractively broad-ranging nose presents notes of violet, plum, red currant, earth and plenty of sauvage character. There is a copious amount of dry extract that both imparts a velvety texture to the medium-bodied flavors as well as buffers the moderately firm tannic spine on the balanced finale that delivers excellent depth and length for a villages level effort. This is notably ripe but retains good freshness and this is worth your attention plus it could be drunk with pleasure young. Recommended."

The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges Village comes from two parcels, one the last parcel in Nuit Saint Georges as you travel north bordering Les Chaumes and Les Lavieres. Deep in color, as one would expect it has a very Vosne-inspired bouquet, quite lush and generous. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent, saline-tinged entry that shows good weight and presence, a savoury tincture upon the red and black fruit towards the buoyant finish. Full of flavor, this is either worth enjoying from the start or you have the option to wait several years. You may have heard of Pierre-Antoine Rovani. One of Burgundy’s most shy and retiring members, he was his usual taciturn self, uttering all but one or two words during my Sunday afternoon tasting of 2012s in Remoissenet’s 14th century cellars, just off the Beaune peripherique. You know the story here: the name reborn in 2005 when outside investors prompted a Damascene resurrection of what had fundamentally been an also-ran bottling operation, into a quality-driven concern and vinifying wines themselves. Their policy is to buy at premium in order to acquire the best fruit, except for the 2.5-hectare of vineyard that they own themselves. With general manager and former Louis Jadot president Bernard Repolt, winemaker Claudine Jobard and chef de culture Fred Le Prince (a wonderful name that sounds like a lost bassist from Funkadelic), this has been one of the region’s recent success stories. They recently purchased the cuverie at Chateau de Chorey to make the Bourgogne Rouge and Givry Village. They use “342s” as Pierre Antoine referred to them i.e. 342-litre barrels casks for vinifying most of their wines. They have a large portfolio of both domaine and negociant wines that I tasted at a leisurely pace on a Sunday afternoon. And I must say, I was impressed by their 2012s. Sure, not everything hits the spot with such a comprehensive and diverse array of wines, but the fact is that many crus showed very well. As Rovani mentioned, there is a gap in the market for affordable Burgundy, one that will surely expand as the top names become prohibitively expensive for mere mortals. That is where Remoissenet can fit in and having overhauled their reds, it sounds as if they will be working on ameliorating their whites in future years, not that they are anything to be ashamed of now. Hey, and you know what? Even Pierre-Antoine was beginning to lose his inhibition and comes out of his shell by the end of the tasting. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460. Also available through Avery’s Wine Merchants in Bristol (UK).