The 2009 Porta Velha, predominantly a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Amarela and Tinta Roriz, is the entry level red here. Bright, light and elegant, it seems well structured for a wine in its price range, with a nice, silky texture, focus and some tannins popping up, but there is some funk on the wine – perhaps the Tinta Amarela rearing its head? – that will be a bit off-putting. Drink now-2017. Importer: Ingenium Wines, Huntsville, AL; tel. (256) 684-2543; Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044

The 2008 PORTA VELHA is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz and some Tinta Amarela (although this is noted only on the data sheet rather than the label), intended to be approachable and early maturing, but able to hold a reasonable time. It succeeds on all counts quite well. Given its modest price point, it is a very nicely constructed wine, with some bursts of tannin, brightness, sunny fruit flavors and an elegant mid-palate. It has a rather silky, Burgundian feel and good purity of fruit. It seems like a “real wine,” while many things in this price range just seem like simple, fruit concoctions. It is a bit compact and without much complexity. While this is the type of wine that makes one wonder if it has the concentration to age as gracefully as its relatively good structure would otherwise permit, and while I suspect it will be at its best now and over the next few years, it should hold longer than usual in its category. It is a very good value and a pleasure to drink given its graceful demeanor . Drink now-2017. The winemaker at this old (1913) Northern Portuguese property is Rui Cunha. Although the wines are in the general vicinity of the Douro appellation, this property is located North of the Douro and they are not Douro DOC wines. Apart from location, most of the wines are vinho regional wines as they contain international grapes, like Cabernet Sauvignon.Importer: Ingenium Wines, Huntsville, AL; tel: (256) 684-2543.