Lilac, passion fruit, and Szechuan pepper scent Brundlmayer's 2010 Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra; then follow, along with grapefruit, onto a fairly full-bodied and glycerin-rich, yet at the same time, bracingly juicy and invigorating palate. This lacks the floral and mineral nuances displayed by the corresponding "regular" bottling and typical for the best Riesling from this site, but it certainly delivers substantiality, sap, and impressive persistence. I would give this a couple of years and then check it out again, anticipating at least 4-6 subsequent years of optimum drinking. Despite the relatively short crop in 2010, Brundlmayer notes that volumes were not inordinately impacted at the upper level of his portfolio, and that he expects as usual, if not more so, to take time with the release of the top Gruner Veltliner. (Brundlmayer is also among the very few Austrian growers to - largely for the benefit of his foreign customers - re-release selected wines after they have had a number of years in bottle; and he releases virtually no reds until they have enjoyed significant bottle age.) For now though, 2010 seems to be a collection that reflects its vintage's challenges and in which Riesling from the Heiligenstein is clearly the star. Brundlmayer's 2009s - the whites, at least - are more uniformly excellent. (He won-t begin showing me 2009 reds until next June.) What's more, some sort of miracle, the like of which I have never before witnessed at this address, seems to have taken place under the auspices of noble rot (and those sweet 2009s should come our way in the next year or two). The high quality and fascination of Brundlmayer's diverse sparkling cuvees is worth once again noting, even if I have omitted publishing detailed notes and small-lot designations for what are always officially non-vintage wines. It's also worth singling-out an all"2007 cuvee of Pinot and Chardonnay with a bit of Gruner Veltliner that was bottled Extra Brut "-though believe, me," notes Brundlmayer, "we try-out nearly every sort of dosage and were surprised that this performed better without" - a wine whose combination of herbal, vegetal, nutty, and mineral tones offers subtly delicious -food- for thought.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2006 Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra exudes a heady sweetness of lilac and violets, with almost Pinot Noir like notes of cassis, smoke, and leather emerging on a palate which displays an opulence and distilled fruit intensity typical of this Riesling whose arms are extended to catch the sun’s rays and maximize ripeness. Tropical fruit suggestions emerge midway on, but flowers have the last word in this wine’s long, ester-rich finish. As this matures – and there is no heat or bitterness from its more than 14% alcohol, nor any other reason to doubt its potential for 8-10 years’ felicitous maturation – a site-typical mineral dimension should emerge. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300