Pickler’s 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd – which originated mostly in the terraced Steinertal – features honeydew melon, gooseberry, Veltliner-like rhubarb, and (site typical) Szechuan pepper in a lush, ample, yet simultaneously tart and refreshing palate display. Nut oils and hints of honey enhance the sense of richness in the finish. This wine’s generously sappy, dynamic personality somehow makes a virtue of its tensions and contrasts. I would expect it to be well worth following for at least 3-4 years in bottle. Lucas Pichler was one of the numerous growers to describe the relatively low alcohol and efficacious acidity of his 2007s as “classic,” even though at this address in particular, one can hardly consider that statistically correct. The finished wines remind me a bit of the superb Pichler 1999s which were lushly, at times even extravagantly fruity (not to mention intensely mineral) while remaining refreshing and moderate in alcohol. F.X. Pichler compares the best of this year’s Rieslings with his 1997s, and certainly in terms of sheer quality it is hard to argue with that assessment. The Pichlers have never favored hedging or leaf pulling, and think that the consequence this year was to protect the embryonic bunches from the searing heat and sun of July and to enhance ripening in the long autumn. Of course, the flip side of this could be the trapping of water and promotion of botyrtis. And Lucas Pichler relates that to achieve excellent Federspiel, it was necessary to laboriously cut out botrytized and otherwise imperfect portions from a substantial share of the clusters. For Pichlers (in contrast with Alzingers) – 2007 was more difficult in terms of botrytis and selection – than 2006, especially with Gruner Veltliner. In both Federspiel and Smaragd categories, they held off on picking Riesling, with (to say the least!) demonstrable success.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Nearly half of the 2006 Sauvignon Blanc Smaragd originates in the terraced Steinertal, a proportion made possible by having once again bottled a separate Federspiel (which I did not taste) solely for a single German merchant. This Smaragd smells pungently of peppermint, sage, blackcurrant and lime zest. Glossy and juicy on the palate, this exudes ripe, lime-drenched honeydew melon, underlain by smoked meat and mineral suggestions. Long and luscious with a faint Szechuan pepper spiciness typical for Steinertal Riesling as well, it exhibits admirable purity and lightness on its feet that belie its Smaragd richness. This exceptional success confirms the wisdom of Lucas Pichler in having lobbied for the continuation of the estate’s “experiments” with Sauvignon Blanc.Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800