Crafted from 12-year-old vines, trained in such a way as to control their yields, the medium to dark ruby-colored 1997 Volnay Les Cailleret was harvested at a pH of 3.55. It offers an intensely sweet, blackberry and dark cherry-scented nose, as well as a refined, bacon and cassis-flavored character. It is a plump, velvety-textured, chewy wine with a long and supple, tannin-packed finish. This lip-smackingly good offering will make for outstanding drinking over the next 6 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel (202) 832-9083.